jewellery

A necklace featuring various kinds of pearls together with glass crystal, designed in the 1940s by the Italian jeweller Marangoni. The piece combines the traditional (it is intended to look as if it is adapted from a rosary) with the contemporary (the use of glass crystal rather than translucent semiprecious or precious stones is typical of the time).

‘The Alfred Jewel’, in the Ashmolean Museum, Oxford, England. This cloisonné enamel portrait, mounted in crystal, is believed to be part of the treasure of Alfred the Great, king of Wessex 871–899. The jewel is in the Carolingian style, showing a revival of interest in Roman work.

A gold buckle from Castle Trosino, in the Medieval Museum, Rome, Italy. This 7th-century buckle is engraved with interlacing patterns and set with precious stones. Jewellery of this kind was a mark of rank in the 7th and 8th centuries, and was worn only by rich nobility and royalty.

The ‘Armada Jewel’, now kept in the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, England, was made in England c. 1585–90, and was probably destined to be a gift for Queen Elizabeth I. Its inner lid carries a miniature of the queen by the English miniaturist Nicholas Hilliard, and is set with diamonds. On the outside of the lid is a Tudor rose.

A 9th-century Viking brooch, in gold set with precious stones. It was discovered at Øvre Eiker, in the Norwegian county of Buskerud.

Objects worn for ornament, such as rings, brooches, necklaces, pendants, earrings, and bracelets. Jewellery has been made from a wide variety of materials, including precious metals, gemstones, amber, teeth, bone, glass, and plastics.

history of Western jewellery 3rd millennium BC Babylonian styles and metalworking techniques reached the Aegean. The Minoans in Crete used the filigree technique, and made large ornaments of embossed gold, silver, and electrum, featuring mythical subjects.

Hellenistic period (from c. 330 BC) Widespread use of coloured stones and glass, and dipped enamel earrings (metal core dipped into molten glass and then shaped with regular glassworking techniques); also animal- or human-headed gold earrings.

Western Roman Empire The Romans were passionate collectors and wearers of gold jewellery and finely engraved gemstone cameos; they were the first to use rings as a sign of betrothal. Hooped earrings threaded with beads and other forms developed, also gold hairpins and bronze fibulae (brooches) based on Celtic forms.

Medieval period Most jewellery was restricted to court and ecclesiastical circles. Byzantine influence led to much enamelling. Crowns, buckles, clasps, and brooches used to fasten cloaks were decorated with enamelled heraldic motifs. Jewelled embroidery was used for ecclesiastical vestments and ceremonial gloves.

Late-14th-century Europe Jewellery became more luxurious and was worn for its decorative value and as a display of wealth, rather than as a functional accessory to dress.

Renaissance Many more techniques of gemcutting were developed to increase sparkle; many devotional rings were worn, and more necklaces and bracelets appeared as women's sleeves were cut wider and necklines became lower. Pendants adorned necklaces, hair, and headdresses – some opened up to reveal religious scenes in miniature. Rosaries were worn as necklaces. Auspicious objects such as jewelled Renaissance pomanders were believed to protect against plague.

17th century Memorial jewellery incorporating woven or plaited hair first appeared. Fashionable women wore strings of pearls.

18th century Matching sets of jewellery (parure) were worn by fashionable women, comprising earrings, brooch, necklace, and bracelet or stomacher. Daytime jewellery consisted of paste and non-precious gemstones; foil-backed enamels were made into buckles and miniature receptacles attached to belts – the best of these were made in France, but copies were made elsewhere in Europe.

19th century Etiquette proscribed dress jewels from daytime wear; tortoiseshell, jet, coral, and ivory were worn instead. From the 1860s novel jewellery was increasingly worn – insects, locomotives, and household objects and tools. Arts and Crafts and art nouveau jewellery was much simpler in design, emphasising organic forms. Around 1900 more conventional but superbly crafted jewellery appeared, designed by Tiffany and Cartier.

Late 19th century–20th century Synthetic gemstones developed along with the chemical industry and polymer science. As the 20th century progressed, costume jewellery was increasingly worn for effect, and from the 1930s onwards everyday, inexpensive materials such as steel, Bakelite, and other kinds of plastic were used. Silver jewellery in simple modern forms designed by Georg Jansen was influential. In the 1970s a new generation of jewellers, trained in art schools rather than through apprenticeship in the trade, placed emphasis on new design ideas rather than value of materials; much contemporary jewellery is affordable and fun.