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surfing (sport)

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surfing

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A surfer on a breaking wave in the sea off Tahiti. Circular currents which roll in the wave are slowed by contact with the sea bed, and this reaches a critical point when a certain depth is reached. The result is that the roll cannot be maintained and the wave overruns itself and breaks. The sport of surfing originated in Hawaii and Australia.

Sport of riding on the crest of large waves while standing on a narrow, keeled surfboard, usually of light synthetic material such as fibreglass, about 1.8 m/6 ft long (or about 2.4-7 m/8-9 ft known as the Malibu), as first developed in Hawaii and Australia. Windsurfing is a recent development.


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